Silicone and caulking are the quiet workhorses of a home. They seal the joins between baths and walls, showers and floors, benchtops and splashbacks, window frames and walls, and skirting boards and plaster. When they are in good condition you barely notice them. When they fail, water gets where it should not, mould grows, draughts blow through and gaps look untidy.

We remove and replace silicone and caulk in bathrooms, kitchens, laundries, windows and around the home for owners, renters, landlords and businesses across Warragul, Drouin, Trafalgar, Yarragon and the surrounding district.

Why silicone fails

Silicone does not last forever. Common causes of failure include:

• Mould. In wet areas, mould grows on and into the silicone, turning it black. Once mould penetrates, cleaning the surface will not remove it.
• Age. Silicone hardens, shrinks and loses adhesion over the years, pulling away from surfaces and leaving gaps.
• Movement. Baths flex when filled, houses move with the seasons, and timber shrinks and swells, all of which stresses seals.
• Poor application. Silicone applied over old silicone, soap residue or damp surfaces never bonds properly and fails quickly.
• Wrong product. Using acrylic caulk in a wet area, or a general-purpose silicone where a mould-resistant sanitary grade is needed.

Bathroom re-siliconing

This is our most common silicone job. Black, peeling or cracked silicone around showers, baths, basins and vanities is not just unsightly; it lets water get behind tiles and into the wall and floor framing, where it can cause rot and damage that is expensive to repair. Our process:

1. Remove all old silicone completely, using blades and silicone removal tools, taking care not to scratch tiles, acrylic baths or shower trays.

2. Remove residue. Old silicone leaves a film that stops new silicone bonding. We clean it off with a solvent.

3. Treat mould. Surfaces are treated with a mould killer and cleaned, including the grout lines next to the joint.

4. Dry thoroughly. Silicone will not bond to wet surfaces. We dry the area, sometimes with a heat gun or fan, and in damp winter conditions this step takes time.

5. Apply new silicone. We use a quality mould-resistant sanitary silicone in a colour to suit (usually white, clear or matched to grout), applied in a continuous bead and tooled to a smooth, neat finish.

6. Curing. Silicone needs time to cure before it gets wet. We will tell you when the shower or bath can be used, usually after a day.

For baths, we fill the bath with water before sealing the bath-to-wall joint, so the silicone is applied with the bath at its loaded position. This reduces cracking when the bath is used.

Kitchen and laundry sealing

• Sealing between benchtops and splashbacks.
• Re-sealing around sinks and laundry tubs.
• Sealing gaps between benchtops and walls.
• Sealing around cooktops (non-gas connections only) where the original seal has failed.

Windows and doors

Gaps around window frames and door frames let in draughts and water. On the outside of the house, we seal gaps between frames and cladding or brickwork with suitable exterior sealant. Inside, we caulk gaps between frames and plaster or architraves before painting. Sealing gaps is a simple, cost-effective way to make a home warmer in a West Gippsland winter.

Painter’s caulking

Before painting, gaps between skirting boards and walls, architraves and walls, cornices and ceilings, and along joins in trims should be filled with paintable acrylic caulk. This gives a clean, continuous line once painted. We caulk as part of painting touch-ups and floor and skirting repairs, or as a standalone job ready for your painter.

Exterior sealing

• Gaps around pipe and cable penetrations through walls.
• Joints in fibre cement cladding and around external fittings.
• Gaps around exterior light fittings and taps (sealing only; electrical and plumbing work by licensed trades).
• Expansion joints in concrete paths and driveways, using flexible sealants suited to concrete.

Choosing the right product

There is a sealant for each job, and using the wrong one is a common cause of failure:

• Sanitary silicone (mould-resistant) for showers, baths, basins, sinks and tubs.
• Neutral-cure silicone for windows, glass and metals, as it does not corrode surfaces.
• Acrylic caulk (paintable) for interior gaps that will be painted; not for wet areas.
• Polyurethane sealants for concrete joints and some exterior applications.
• Hybrid sealants where paintability and flexibility are both needed outdoors.

Silicone and tiling problems

Sometimes failed silicone is a symptom of a bigger problem. If tiles are loose, grout is cracked and the wall sounds hollow behind the shower, water may already have damaged the substrate or waterproofing. Re-siliconing alone will not fix this. We will tell you if we suspect a waterproofing failure, which needs a waterproofing specialist or bathroom renovator. See also tiling and regrouting.

Rentals

Mouldy silicone is one of the most common items flagged at rental inspections and in condition reports. We re-silicone bathrooms and kitchens between tenancies and at routine maintenance, providing before and after photos for landlords and property managers. See property managers and end-of-lease repairs.

A typical re-siliconing job

Here is a common example. A homeowner in Warragul has a main bathroom with a shower recess and bath. The silicone around the shower base is black with mould and has pulled away in one corner, and the bath silicone is cracked along its length. The kitchen splashback seal has also started to peel.

Removal and preparation

The old silicone in the shower and around the bath is removed completely and the residue cleaned off. A mould treatment is applied to the joint areas and adjacent grout, then rinsed and dried. In the corner where the silicone had pulled away, we check the tiles and grout for movement; they are sound.

Application

The bath is filled with water. Mould-resistant white silicone is applied to the bath-to-wall joint and shower base joints, then tooled to a neat concave finish. The kitchen splashback is re-sealed with clear silicone.

Curing and advice

We leave the bath full while the silicone sets and advise the homeowner to avoid using the shower until the next day. We suggest running the exhaust fan after showers to slow mould regrowth.

Keeping silicone cleaner for longer

• Ventilate bathrooms during and after showers; run the exhaust fan or open a window.
• Squeegee or wipe down shower walls and the base after use.
• Clean silicone regularly with a mild bathroom cleaner, before mould gets established.
• Avoid harsh abrasive cleaners that scratch the silicone surface, making it easier for mould to grip.
• Fix leaking taps and shower heads so joints are not constantly wet.

Getting a quote

Send photos of the areas to be sealed, showing the length and condition of the joints. Tell us which rooms are involved. We will reply with a written scope and free quote. We do not publish prices online.

Areas

Silicone and caulking in Warragul, Drouin, Trafalgar, Yarragon, Nilma, Darnum, Rokeby, Buln Buln, Neerim South and Longwarry. See our service areas and all services.

Why the damp climate matters

West Gippsland’s long, cold, damp winters mean bathrooms take longer to dry after each use, especially in older homes without exhaust fans. Condensation lingers on walls and joints, giving mould ideal conditions. Silicone in local homes often needs replacing more often than in drier parts of the state. Good ventilation, mould-resistant products and careful preparation make the new seal last as long as possible.

Can I silicone over old silicone?

No. New silicone does not bond to old silicone, and applying a new bead over a failed one traps mould and moisture underneath. It may look better for a few weeks, but it will fail quickly. Complete removal and proper preparation are essential for a lasting result.

Signs water is getting past the seal

Failed silicone does not always look dramatic. Watch for these warning signs that water may be escaping from a shower or bath:

• Peeling or bubbling paint on the wall outside the shower or on the other side of the wall.
• Swelling or staining on skirting boards, door frames or vanity bases next to the bathroom.
• A musty smell that lingers even after cleaning.
• Floor tiles outside the shower that have become loose or drummy.
• Water stains on the ceiling below an upstairs bathroom.
• Timber floorboards near the bathroom that have cupped or darkened.

If you notice any of these, it is worth having the seals checked promptly. Catching a failed seal early is far cheaper than repairing rotten framing or replacing a floor.

Shower screens and frames

Shower screen frames are sealed to the wall and the shower base, and these joints fail just like the rest. Water then runs behind the frame and out onto the bathroom floor. We remove old silicone from around screen frames, clean the channels, and re-seal inside and out where appropriate. Many shower screens have weep holes along the bottom track that let water drain back into the shower; these must be left clear, so we take care not to block them. See also bathroom fixtures.

Acrylic baths and shower bases

Acrylic and fibreglass baths and shower trays scratch easily, so we use plastic blades and gentle tools to remove old silicone without marking the surface.

Combining jobs in one visit

Silicone work suits combining. While we are replacing bathroom silicone, we can also regrout cracked sections, re-seal the kitchen and laundry, caulk gaps around windows before winter and fill skirting gaps ready for painting. Doing several rooms at once makes good use of curing time, because we can move to the next room while one joint sets.

Neat lines matter

A good silicone joint is even in width, smooth and cleanly finished at each end. We mask edges where needed and tool every bead so it looks tidy as well as keeping water out.

Frequently asked questions